May 3, 2008 Journal Entry

Susan lands in Iran

Yesterday we visited Persepolis, the ancient, ancient palaces of the Zoroastrian kings. From these comes the immense historical pride of the Iranian people. Long carvings, previously painted, of people from many countries bringing tribute--all the way to Ethiopia. A bit of a climb to reach the site. A brief rainstorm included hail, taking me very much by surprise! But as I looked at the ancient ruins and touched artifacts from as early as 500 B.C., I could sense the need of this people to be respected for their past--and we must learn, in our negotiations, to speak out of that respect.

Today we go to the bazaar and then travel to Esfahan. We now have a huge red bus. Everything you've heard about countries with difficult traffic patterns pertains to Iran. The first three days I was here, and not on the streets all that much, I saw three accidents take place. Parents with children on motorbikes with no helmets. Yesterday, to get the bus out of the parking lot, men picked up cars and moved them. One does what one must.

The very warm receptions continue, but I don't know how to balance that with the stories of 9-13 year old boys being used to set off the bombs during the Iran-Iraq war. Our coordinator volunteered for the war at the age of 15 and we hope to soon hear his story. The only explanation we have received is that, when one's very way of life is under attack, one does what one must.